Elianna speaks great English and is so sweet. I kept wanting to compliment them but it attracts the evil eye so I tried to keep quiet. Their baby niece, Georgia, and mom (Adonis's wife) came to the beach with us once--I couldn't keep from complimenting the baby saying she was so pretty. The mom left about 5 min. later. I hope it wasn't to avoid contact with us.
The evenings here. I would never eat inside if I lived here either.
Artemis is in 4th grade and knows a tiny bit of English. They connected over Barbie.com. Although they didn't understand eachother, Ellery and Artemis often walked around holding hands. Instead of complimenting Ellery, the two girls would just stroke her hair and smile quietly. Soren was decidedly quiet though he wasn't about to stroke anyone's hair--he clammed up around Elianna. Was it the bikini top she wore which is ubiquitous, and at other times deemed unecessary by some women as well as all pre-adolescent female children. Bikinis are worn by the old, the new, the large, the small, the flabby, the post-partum etc. I felt like I was wearing a tent in my boyshort tankini. It was freeing to know that in this part of the world where women's lives are quite proscribed, they can be free enough with their bodies to not feel like they have to be perfect to wear a bikini. I must try this new paradigm--in my own backyard.
In town there are 3 community pelicans that roam the streets. The tavernas feed them and consider it good business when one visits, bringing prospective customers along. They have names, I forgot the 2 boys but the girl is Irina.
Soren got 'kissed' by one. We stopped at a taverna--the kids had fruit drinks and crepes. I had told Francesca that I wanted to try Sardines which are now in season. We ordered some with the typical greens (horta) and she showed me how to eat them first with utensils then we degraded to the real way--with our hands. They are salty, smokey and so fresh. I wonder if I can find them in the US. The two of us talk and compare our lives--daily routine, kids' school/hobby schedule and interests, and cooking--she describes how she prepares stewed rabbit and I explain Fried Green Tomatoes. She said, "Here, we eat our tomatoes red."
While the nightlife began with food and drink and merriment, we were walking inside a small stone church in the shape of a greek cross. The ceiling was light blue with gold stars all over. Wood carving, chairs labeled with names of patrons, iconography framed and within kissing range for adherants. Ellery followed Artemis around, walking in front of an icon, crossing herself and kissing the artwork which was beautiful in that Byzantine style where a beautiful face should be a theatre of pain. She enjoyed being part of a ritual-how nice to be included. One of the Orthodox priests came in (many of them are married, they don't cut their hair and wear hats that are flat on top, similar to 'other' traditions of sacred dress) and said something. We bustled after the girls across the street where an adherant was handing out big chunks of bread. Great crusty, fluffy creations, some with raisins in them. Everyone got some in the name of Kiriakis--note to self to look up her hagiography. After, we roamed the narrow streets, we had Greek yogurt gelato flavored with Mastic and Herbs. Kids threw rocks in the water--Ellery accidentally threw one at a boat which drew the attentions of an old weathered fisherman.
They invited us to come back next year and stay at the apartment attached to their summer house. Time to save up some more Euros. European kisses and email exchanges too. I want to put together a little package of goodies for the girls to send back as a thank you for showing us a Mykonos different than what we would have been able to see on our own.
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