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Smart and beautiful. Helps me understand why Greeks walk around with a scowl, why Athens is not a pretty city, why Greece seems at once like a wise old man irked by the young (America), and also a 40ish high school football star who dreams of recapturing lost status as the center of civilization. This is the kind of book I wish to write. Part travelogue, part ethnology, part history, and part work of art. If you don't read this I think we can still be friends.
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